Build a Cedar Raised Garden Bed

I still remember my first raised bed. I “eyeballed” the screws, skipped pre-drilling, and split more boards than I care to admit. The good news is a cedar raised bed is a perfect beginner woodworking project because it is forgiving, useful, and you do not need fancy joinery to build something that lasts.

In this tutorial, we are building a durable 4 ft x 8 ft x about 11 in tall cedar raised garden bed using common cedar fence pickets. Cedar is naturally rot-resistant, lightweight, and easy to work with. If you can measure, make straight cuts, and drive screws, you can build this.

Why cedar (and what to buy)

Cedar costs more than pine, but it pays you back in two ways: it holds up to weather and soil moisture, and it is easy to cut and fasten without fighting the wood.

Best boards for budget builds

• Cedar fence pickets (5/8 in x 5-1/2 in x 6 ft) are widely available and usually the best bang for your buck.
• Cedar 2x2s make solid corner stakes and interior supports.

Rot resistance and chemicals

I recommend untreated cedar for beds you will grow food in.

About pressure-treated lumber: modern pressure-treated wood (ACQ or CA) is commonly used for garden beds and is generally considered safer than older formulas. If you are unsure what treatment a board has (especially older stock or mystery lumber), skipping it is a simple way to avoid second-guessing. Cedar plus stainless or coated fasteners is an easy, safe combo.

Bed size and finished dimensions

This plan is for a classic 4 ft x 8 ft bed, which is easy to reach from both sides without stepping into the soil.

• Outside footprint: about 48 in x 96 in
• Height: about 11 in (two courses of fence pickets)
• Board thickness: about 5/8 in per picket

If you want a taller bed, you can add another course of pickets and use longer stakes. The assembly steps stay the same.

Tools and materials

Tools

• Measuring tape
• Speed square or framing square
• Miter saw or circular saw
• Drill and driver bit
• 1/8 in drill bit for pilot holes
• Clamps (helpful, not required)
• Level (or a straight 2x4 and your eyeballs)
• Work gloves and safety glasses

Materials (for one 4x8 bed)

• 12 cedar fence pickets, 5/8 in x 5-1/2 in x 6 ft (makes all the 48 in boards)
• Optional but recommended: +2 extra pickets for the straightest boards, knots, or oops cuts
• 2 cedar 2x2s, 8 ft long (stakes and backers)
• Exterior screws: #8 x 1-5/8 in or 2 in (coated deck screws work well)
• Optional: landscape fabric (for weeds), 1/2 in hardware cloth (if you have burrowing pests)

Screw note: Cedar contains tannins that can corrode plain steel over time. Coated deck screws are fine for most builds. If you want the “build it once” option, go stainless.

How many screws? A 1 lb box is plenty for one bed. If you like having extra for add-ons and mistakes, grab a 2 lb box and do not think about it again.

Cut list

All cuts are straight 90 degree cuts. Pick the straightest pickets you can. Slight bowing is normal, but avoid boards with major twists.

Cedar pickets

This design uses 48 in boards for every wall section. The 8 ft sides are simply two 48 in boards per course, joined with a small backer behind the seam.

• 48 in pieces: 12 total
  • Long sides: 8 pieces at 48 in (2 pieces per course x 2 courses x 2 long sides)
  • Short sides: 4 pieces at 48 in (1 piece per course x 2 courses x 2 short sides)

Yield from 6 ft pickets: Each 72 in picket becomes one 48 in piece plus a 24 in scrap. That is why the minimum is 12 pickets for 12 cut pieces.

Cedar 2x2 stakes and backers

• Corner stakes: 4 pieces at 16 in
• Midpoint stakes (long sides): 2 pieces at 16 in
• Seam backers (long sides): 4 pieces at 11 in (one behind each seam, two seams per long side)

Why 16 in stakes? With an 11 in tall bed, that leaves about 5 in to bite into the ground. If your soil is loose, bump these to 18 to 24 in for better anchoring.

Step-by-step assembly

Step 1: Prep and pick your location

Build the bed near where it will live. A finished 4x8 bed is awkward to carry, and you will likely want to tweak level once it is in place.

• Rake the area flat.
• Remove sod if you can. Your future self will thank you.
• If you are dealing with weeds, lay cardboard under the bed footprint before filling.

Step 2: Build two short side panels

Each short side is two pickets tall. Lay two 48 in pickets flat, edges aligned.

• Place a 16 in 2x2 stake at each end, flush with the edge of the pickets.
• Pre-drill pilot holes to prevent splitting, especially near picket ends.
• Drive 2 screws per picket into each stake (so 4 screws per stake).

Marcus tip: If you pre-drill once and then drive screws, you will feel like you suddenly got “good at woodworking.” Cedar splits less than pine, but thin pickets still crack if you rush.

Step 3: Build the long sides (seams + midpoint stake)

We are using 6 ft fence pickets cut into 48 in sections. That means each 8 ft side is made from two 48 in boards per course, and we reinforce the seam so it stays straight.

• For the bottom course of one long side, place two 48 in pickets end-to-end on the ground.
• Center an 11 in 2x2 seam backer behind the joint, spanning both boards.
• Pre-drill and drive 2 screws into each picket end (4 screws total) to lock the seam.
• Repeat for the top course seam on that long side.

Now add one 16 in midpoint stake to that long side panel (centered on the 96 in length). Screw through both courses into the stake.

Important: Do not add corner stakes to the long sides. The corner stakes are already on the short side panels, and those stakes are what the long sides screw into during final assembly.

Bow tip: If a picket has a slight crown (a gentle curve), install it so the crown faces inward toward the soil. Soil pressure tends to push it straighter instead of making it bulge out.

Step 4: Stand the panels and connect the corners

Stand the two short sides parallel, then bring one long side panel up to the outside faces of the corner stakes to form a rectangle.

Orientation note: The long sides fasten into the corner stakes that are attached to the short side panels. This keeps the outside footprint at about 48 in x 96 in.

• Clamp corners if you have clamps. If not, a helper or a couple of scrap blocks works.
• Pre-drill through the long side pickets into the corner stake of the short side.
• Drive 2 screws per course at each corner (4 screws per corner connection).

Repeat for the second long side. Check for square by measuring corner-to-corner diagonals. If both diagonals match, you are square.

Step 5: Level and anchor the bed

This step is the difference between “pretty good” and “feels professional.”

• Set the bed in its final spot.
• Use a level on the top edge, checking both directions.
• If one side is high, scrape soil under that edge until it settles.
• Tap the corner stakes down into the soil with a rubber mallet or a scrap block and hammer.

Hard-learned lesson: Do not try to “force level” by cranking screws tighter. Level the ground, then the bed will sit happy without twisting.

Step 6: Add pest protection (optional)

If moles, gophers, or voles are a thing in your yard, staple 1/2 in hardware cloth to the bottom footprint before filling. Overlap seams by a couple inches.

If weeds are your main enemy, lay cardboard or landscape fabric under the bed. Cardboard breaks down and feeds the soil. It is my go-to.

Step 7: Fill with soil

A quick fill recipe that works for most veggies:

• 50% topsoil
• 30% compost
• 20% aeration mix (aged wood fines, leaf mold, or coarse coco coir)

Water it in after filling. Soil settles a surprising amount in the first week.

Fastener spacing

• Keep screws at least 3/4 in from picket ends to reduce splitting.
• Use 2 screws per picket into each stake or seam backer.
• Pre-drill pilot holes any time you are within 2 inches of an end.

Finishing and longevity

Cedar can be left unfinished. It will weather to a silvery gray. That is normal and does not mean it is failing.

Seal it?

If you want the warm cedar color to stick around longer, use a water-based exterior sealer on the outside faces only. I avoid coating the inside where soil stays wet, because trapped moisture can shorten board life.

Help it last longer

• Try not to pile wet mulch up against the outside boards for months at a time.
• If you can, keep sprinklers from soaking the wood daily. Soil can be wet. The boards do not need to be.

Skip this

• Do not line the inside with plastic. It traps moisture against the wood.
• Do not use interior screws. They rust and snap.

Common mistakes

• Skipping pilot holes: split pickets and weak corners.
• Building on a slope without leveling: you will fight it forever.
• No midpoint support: long sides bow outward once the soil is wet and heavy.
• Using whatever screws were in the junk drawer: corrosion stains and early failures.

Quick FAQ

Only a circular saw?

Yes. Clamp a straight board as a guide for cleaner cuts. Take your time and let the blade do the work.

How long will it last?

In most climates, a cedar bed like this often lasts 7 to 15 years, depending on soil moisture, drainage, and whether the boards stay in constant contact with wet mulch.

Need corner brackets?

No. Stakes and screws are plenty strong for an 11 inch tall bed. Brackets are optional if you like the look.

Printable shopping list

• 12 cedar fence pickets, 5/8 in x 5-1/2 in x 6 ft
• Optional: 2 extra cedar fence pickets (recommended for best results)
• 2 cedar 2x2s, 8 ft
• 1 lb box exterior deck screws, #8 x 1-5/8 in or 2 in (2 lb if you want extra)
• Optional: hardware cloth and staples
• Optional: cardboard or landscape fabric

If you build this bed, do not stress perfection. Straight cuts, pre-drilled holes, and a level base will get you 95% of the way there. The last 5% comes from building your second one, because you will want a second one.